Help Centre

The Flexi Brush Strip has a larger backing which means you can screw or rivet straight into the backing.  The backing size is 25mm x 10mm, allow for 10mm where the bristles are individually staple-punched into the backing.

Click here for our Flexi Brush Strip

A Sample Pack is the best way to know that you are ordering exactly what you need.
Each sample pack contains a small piece of every Strip Brush option, including the fibre types, bristle length options and aluminium holder shapes.

Mix and match the different brush and track options to figure exactly what you need for your application. Know exactly what you need and have confidence that your strip brush will work the first time.
PLUS, you qualify for a 10% discount off your Strip Brush purchase (excluding Freight)

Click here for our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

Our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack costs $1.00 including GST, plus Australia Post 500gm Satchel cost.
Our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack costs $9.90 including GST, plus Courier 5kg Satchel cost. This includes the Residential Pack FREE OF CHARGE.

We generally process and ship SAME day as order.

Click here for our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

When you purchase our Strip Brush Sample Pack, you will find a LABEL ON THE SAMPLE PACK with your COUPON CODE.  When you go into your Shopping Cart, you can add your COUPON CODE into the Shopping Cart, and your 10% discount will be applied to your Strip Brush (min Purchase $100).

Click here for our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

We offer this exclusively to customers who purchase our Sample Pack.  This is to offset the cost of the Sample Pack, and allows you to have certainty when you invest in your Garage Door Seals. You will have the certainty of knowing that what you Order will work for your application.

Our brushes come in the best UV stabilised colour which is BLACK!! In our Residential Strip Brush, our Fire Retardant bristle has a grey tinge to the bristle.  That comes from the treatment of the Fibre to be ember resistant, including having a higher melting temperature and also the improved self-extinguishing properties.

Our Aluminium Holders are anodized in a clear colour, so they will be SILVER in colour.  You can paint the Ali, however they will need to be primed with an “etch primer”. This is readily available in tin or spray paint from your local hardware store.  Then you can paint them in your colour of choice.  We found using Spray paint works well.

Alternatively, you can contact your local Powder Coater company to have the Aluminium Holders powder coated in your desired colour to make your Garage Door Colour.

Click here for our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

Your local Council will have information regarding the BAL (Bushfire Attack Level) rating for your area and can give you advice regarding sealing your property to meet the Australian Standards AS 3959-2018 Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas.  Some councils have information available via Google search.

UPDATE – Australian Standards AS 3959-2018 Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas – we have confirmed via independent testing our Fire Retardant Strip Brush meets the requirements for homes in BAL rated zones 12.5 up to and including BAL FZ. Our Nylon and Polypropylene Bristle is classified with a very low flammability rating of 1 (maximum of 5 for compliance)

If your property is not BAL rated, then the fire retardant fibre is not necessary. If you are not sure, please contact your local council for more information regarding your specific property.  The Fire Retardant Strip has a higher melting point and the bristles are designed to self-extinguish when under Ember Attack.

Click here for our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

Ember Seal

An ember seal is designed to stop burning embers and small sparks from entering openings.

Key points

• Prevents wind-blown embers from entering gaps
• Often uses tight brush seals, metal mesh, or compression seals
• Commonly fitted to roof gaps, vents, garage doors, roller doors, and other external openings
• Important in bushfire-prone areas, where embers are a major cause of ignition

Fire Seal

A fire seal is designed to stop flames and high heat from passing through gaps or joints.

Key points

• Prevents direct flame penetration
• Made from fire-resistant materials such as intumescent strips, fire-rated sealants, or fire gaskets
• Many expand when exposed to heat to close gaps
• Typically used in fire doors, wall penetrations, ducting, and building joints

Simple Difference

• Ember seal: protects against wind-blown embers and sparks
• Fire seal: protects against direct flames and intense heat

Our Strip Brush and Garage Door Seals are designed for ember seal only.  For sealing up a Fire Door or Emergency Exit door, please refer to a local Fire Protection Company, Fire Safety Consultant/Engineer or Commercial Door specialist.

Our raw Polypropylene fibre is manufactured in Australia. Our raw Flame Retardant Nylon fibre comes from Australia or China and is manufactured into the Brush Strip in Australia.

UPDATE – Australian Standards AS 3959-2018 Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas – we have confirmed via independent testing our Fire Retardant Strip Brush meets the requirements for homes in BAL rated zones 12.5 up to and including BAL FZ. Our Nylon Bristle is classified with a very low flammability rating of 1 (maximum of 5 for compliance)

Please contact us for a copy of the Compliance Certificate.

Flexi Brush Strip®  are sold in increments of 1 metre. When you  purchase multiple lengths, we will supply this in a continuous length up to 20 metres, unless you specify otherwise.

Our Flexi Brush Strip is manufactured in continuous rolls of between 20 metres up to 50 metres, which is then cut to size per customer order.  The Flexi Brush Strip is then rolled into a coil and packaged in a carton for ease of shipping.

To cut the Flexi Brush Strip to your desired length, simply mark the backing at the cutting point. Use pliers to remove a tuft and staple from the backing.  Then you will have some clear space to cut the backing with a hack-saw.  Removing a tuft will not impact the other bristles.  They are all individually staple-punched into the backing.

Click here for our Flexi Brush Strip

We have a Kit designed for Sectional and Panel Lift Garage Doors, based on feedback we have received from a number of professional Garage Door installers.  Most Garage Door Service companies will fit this brush to the front of the garage door to create the seal.  If you would like to fit them behind the garage door to hide the bristle inside the garage, we recommend you consider purchasing our Sample Pack so you can work out what will suit your Garage Door.

SECTIONAL OR PANEL DOOR BRUSH

Click here for our 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack

We also have Kits suitable for Roller Doors.

The 4mm Residential Nylon fibre is very soft but dense and when installed correctly is not likely to impact on the motor or the exterior finish of the door.

When you install the brush you need it to be just touching the door when the door is closed to create the seal, and preferably on the outer corrugation of the Roller Door. Sealing the bristle within 2mm of the door generally creates a good seal and limits any pressure against the door.

For Roller Doors, we have a NEW Aluminium Holder which has a 25 degree angle.  This can be FITTED TO THE DOOR with the bristle just touching behind the Lintel or frame of the door to create the seal. It is designed to fit to the outer corrugation of the roller door, with the angle of the Holder sitting inside the inner corrugation.  Then only the bristle is extending outwards and can fold up easily inside the garage door.

We recommend you consider purchasing the 4mm Strip Brush Sample Pack so that you can see the Strip Brush and Holders and “try before you buy”.

Generally, the sides are sealed from the protection of the guides either side of the Roller Door. In most cases you will only need to do the Top Seal for weather protection.  For Residential Garage Doors, the 4mm Strip Brush Seals is suitable to protect from draughts, dust, leaves and pests like moths and mosquitos.

Sometimes there may be gaps on the sides of the Roller door where the brickwork and mortar meet the Roller Door guides.  In this instance you could use a bonding or sealant to close those gaps in the mortar.

For an ember seal, the best idea is to stand inside the garage with the door closed, and look for gaps where the light gets through.  This is where, in an ember attack, high winds could cause embers to penetrate into the garage. It is recommended to seal all of the gaps to within 2mm. For homes in a high Bush Fire Risk area, it would be prudent to cover the sides as well as the Top.

If unsure about protecting your home from ember attack, please consult with your local council for more information regarding local requirements.

Australian Standards AS 3959-2018 Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas – we have confirmed via independent testing our Fire Retardant Strip Brush meets the requirements for homes in all BAL rated zones 12.5 up to and including BAL FZ. 

Please contact us for a copy of the Compliance Certificate.

It is important to check what is the largest gap when the door is closed, and that is the bristle length that you would need.  We would recommend considering using a 45 degree Aluminium Holder fixed to under the Lintel or frame, and angle the bristle downwards away from the gap.  When the door is closed, the bristle will just touch the door to create the seal.  Where the gaps are smaller, the bristle will settle downwards without overly squashing against the door.

Sometimes, you might find it appropriate to install the Brush Seal in 2 pieces joining in the middle and having the Brush Seal angled like a slight “V” shape.  Then you have the ability for the brush to touch the door at the largest gap and then fit the brush seal back a bit at the ends where the gap is smaller. Once installed, it will look less obtrusive than trying to use different size bristle lengths on the one door.

We have a 9mm INDUSTRIAL Strip Brush Sample Pack available to purchase so you can “try before you buy”.  The pack comes with a 10cm Sample of each of the Aluminium Holders and a sample of the bristle lengths.  The pack also includes the 4mm Residential Strip Brush Sample Pack.

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

NOTE – THIS CAN BE A TRICKY APPLICATION.  Please check your measurements carefully.

You will still need a Strip Brush bristle length that covers the widest gap when the door is closed.  Consider using the 45 degree Aluminium Holder so that the bristle is angled away from the gap when the door is opening.  We would recommend you consider purchasing our Strip Brush Sample Pack for either Residential or Industrial applications.  Then you can check what the function of the roller door would be like when you are operating the door opening mechanism.  This is to avoid the bristles getting caught up in the gap and impeding on the door mechanism.

If the gap when opening becomes smaller than 20mm, please proceed with caution and check your measurements carefully prior to ordering your Aluminium Holders and Brush Seals.

If you are unsure, we would recommend you seek advice from a Garage Door Maintenance professional who may be able to make adjustment to the Roller Door.  Or you may be able to install a “spacer” or “packer” under the frame. This means the installed Strip Brush would sit lower and keep clear from the roller gap.  In some instances, it may be necessary to install the Strip Brush on the actual Roller Door with the bristle then touching the Lintel or frame to create the seal (Available in our Residential range only).

For Roller Doors, we have a NEW Aluminium Holder which has a 25 degree angle.  This can be FITTED TO THE DOOR with the bristle just touching behind the Lintel or frame of the door to create the seal. It is designed to fit to the outer corrugation of the roller door, with the angle of the Holder sitting inside the inner corrugation.  Then only the bristle is extending outwards and can fold up easily inside the garage door.

4MM RESIDENTIAL SAMPLE PACK

Click here for our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush Sample Pack

There are 2 options to consider:

It might be possible that if you went with a longer brush seal and mounted it higher up the door so that there will only be sufficient bristle protruding below the door so it is just touching the floor to create your seal.  Going with a longer bristle means it has more “flick” in it.  When the door opens it will crush down against the gap.  Hopefully the door would be heavy enough that when the door closes it has enough pressure to cause the bristle to “reverse” against itself and then will settle back into place when fully closed.  If it doesn’t have enough pressure behind it, the bristle will be jammed and cause the door to stay open.  This would be similar with doors opening onto an incline.  You do need to consider the physics of the bristle being able to bend one way and then have enough room to reverse and bend the other way.

There are some products in the market that are spring mounted so that when the door opens the seal is pulled upwards to the level of the door so that it can handle the smaller gap.  It is known as a drop down seal. We do not stock this type of seal.

Pesky birds cannot fly through the bristle, however if they have somewhere to perch they can push through.  So make sure that you do not have anywhere near the gap that the birds can perch on.  And remember to remove the nests, as they will continue to try to get in.

If the gap is smaller than 75mm then the 4mm Residential Strip may suffice.  If the gap is larger, then go with the 9mm thick Industrial Strip Brush.

4MM RESIDENTIAL SAMPLE PACK

9MM INDUSTRIAL SAMPLE PACK

Possums are a pain, as they are territorial and will likely continue to try to get in.  We would perhaps recommend you consider our 9mm Industrial Strip Brush in Fire Retardant which has a thicker backing and the bristle is thicker and coarser.  The possums don’t like the bristles on their whiskers.  But this may still only be a deterrent and not an overall fix.  And the bristle may also be heavier on the mechanism of your Garage Door.

We highly recommend you contact a local Possum-man ie Pest Control specialist who may be able to provide you with some advice.

https://busybee.com.au/product/9mm-industrial-strip-brush-fire-retardant-fibre-choose-your-options/

https://busybee.com.au/faqs/#Strip-Brush-and-Garage-door-seals

https://busybee.com.au/product/industrial-sample-pack-strip-brush-and-garage-door-seals-try-before-you-buy/

When installing our Strip Brush and Garage Door Seals, please choose a bristle that covers the whole gap.  Do not try to use part of the Aluminium Holder to cover, especially if there is a bow in the roller door.  You could run the risk of the Aluminium Holder interfering with the smooth running of the door.   The Aluminium Holder should be fitted along the frame of the door and not jut out.

STRIP BRUSH Fitting Instructions and Tips

Garage Door Fitting Examples

So, for example, if your gap is 45mm, go with a 50mm brush rather than the 38mm brush.

All of our Strip Brush and Aluminium Holders are manufactured and stocked in 3 metre lengths.  Anything longer than 3 metres is cumbersome and expensive to freight.

In this instance you would purchase 1 x 3m and 1 x 1.5m length and join them together to make up 4.5m, and then cut them down to 4.3m when you install them.

For the sides of residential garages, you can choose 2.5 metre lengths, and then cut them down to the length required, eg. 2200mm.  Also, check in case the sides are 2 different measurements which can sometimes happen!  Remember, measure 3 times, cut once.

Our Garage Door Seals are packed onto heavy duty cardboard and wrapped for protection. They are then either inserted into a heavy-duty Cardboard carton or flat packed.  We find this the strongest packaging to withstand the rigours of couriers.  Please remember to dispose of your packaging thoughtfully.  Re-Use, Recycle, Upcycle.

At up to 3 metres in length, Strip Brush is an awkward product to transport and classified as Oversized or Bulky freight. Many couriers will not accept items over 1 metre, and the others charge a premium for oversize items.  We do find placing the items in a Tube provides the strongest Shipping protection, however there is often additional charges from the freight company for manual handling of Tubes.
We offer flat-rate freight to ship this around Australia, to keep our prices down, and to make sure it doesn’t become inaccessible to our regional customers.

We do not recommend trying to trim the bristle yourself. The Nylon bristle is fine, but dense and it is difficult to cut the bristle into an even line. We recommend the Strip Brush Sample Pack so that you can choose the right bristle length first time.  If you really need a different bristle length, contact us to discuss a quote for custom cutting.

If the bristle is too long, sometimes choosing the 45 degree Holder allows the bristle to settle better.  If the bristle is too short, you may be able to move the Holder over to ensure the bristle just touches the door to create the Seal.  The Strip Brush Sample Pack allows you to “try before you buy” and mix and match until you find the right combination for your application.

4MM RESIDENTIAL SAMPLE PACK

9MM INDUSTRIAL SAMPLE PACK

When you purchase your Strip Brush Sample Pack, you will receive a copy of our Fitting Tips Sheet.
Or you can download it here:
STRIP BRUSH Fitting Instructions and Tips

Garage Door Fitting Examples

Here is an example of a YouTube video of installation:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wuFLAiRJCQ

All our strip brush and aluminium holders are manufactured and stocked in 3 metre lengths. This is for ease of transport.
For lengths over 3 metres, purchase 2 pieces to make up the length required.
For example: for a 5.2 metres double garage we recommend you purchase 1 x 3m and 1 x 2.5m.

We sell the brush strip and holders in increments of 1.0 metre, 1.5 metres, 2 metres, 2.5 metres or straight from stock at 3 metres.  We can help you with cut to size lengths. Please Contact Us and we can discuss a quote for custom cutting.

We have a full range of Aluminium Holders and Fire Retardant Brush Strips suitable for most domestic Garage doors, including Roller Doors, Panel Doors, Tilt Doors and Sectional Doors.  Suitable for top and bottom seal, and side seals.  You can mix and match with our “Choose your options” product listing (type “4mm” in our Search Box). A Sample Pack is available to purchase so you can “try before you buy”.

4MM RESIDENTIAL SAMPLE PACK

9MM INDUSTRIAL SAMPLE PACK

If your bristles have lost their shape over time or during transport, run hot water (not boiling) over the bristles and flatten them down with a soft towel to help return their memory.

If you’d prefer to hear a friendly voice then you are welcome to give us a call on 039768 2865 and place your order over then phone. Please have your complete order ready along with your credit card details.

When you are in the Shopping Cart, please add your postcode and then our drop down options will appear, including pick up from our store in Dandenong South VIC.

For the best clean, choose a Flue Brush Head the same size as the inside diameter of your Flue. a Flue Brush head that is too small will be ineffective; too large may damage the joins and rivets in your Flue.

Our Polypropylene Flue Brush Head is widely recommended for most Flue Cleaning applications. The polypropylene bristles are hard wearing, long lasting and strong enough to give you a great clean. However, it can’t be used when the flue is warm, as the plastic can melt.
The Galvanised Steel brush can be used when the flue is still warm. The major disadvantage is that over time the steel bristles may scratch the inside of the flue, leading to more creosote build-up in the future
For personal use we recommend the polypropylene brush head.

For flues and wood heaters, check out our Flue Brush Range

For chimneys, check out our Semi Professional Chimney Sweep Kit

For Duct cleaning, check out our Professional Brushes

For Coffee Roasters, check out our Coffee Roaster Kits

The Flexi Flue Brush Kit is designed to clean from the bottom up. The Nylon rod is strong but flexible and can handle up to 2 x 45-degree bends. This allows it bend through the wood heater into the flue hole.
You will need to remove the baffle or damper plate to access the opening of the flue. Cleaning from the bottom up can be a bit messier, so be on hand with a vacuum cleaner to suck up any soot that overflows from the heater.
Do not try to bend the rod more than 45 degrees when you are feeding the rod into the Flue. You will need to stand close to the front of the woodheater so that you do not run the risk of the Rod being forced inwards at a larger angle and collapsing. If you are unable to remove the Damper plate, you may need to contact your local Wood Heater service professional for advice.

We do not have any specific instructions, as each wood heater is different.  However you may find the baffle plate appears “stuck” due to creosote build up, and a slight tap with a soft mallet may help to dislodge it.

Here is a YouTube video we found that may assist:

Click here

Yes, any of our Flue Cleaning Brush Kits can be used from the roof.  Simply feed the Flexi Flue Brush head down the Flue to the bottom and pull back up again.  No pushing or jiggling required.

Our Flexi Flue Brush Kit can handle up to 2 x 45-degree angles in the flue. Take care to not force the brush, as this may dislodge sections of the Flue. If unsure, obtain some advice from your local Chimney Sweep. Alternatively, using our Flexi Flue Brush Kit, you can clean one bend from the roof and the other from the ground.

It might be an idea to consult with a Chimney Sweep professional or Flue Installation specialist to consider whether a “port” could be installed into the Flue. This would allow you to insert your Flue Cleaning Brush and Rod in between the 45 degree bends for easier access. You can then clean downwards and then upwards.

When you have more than a 21ft (6.3m) Flue to clean, it might be an idea to consult with a Chimney Sweep professional or Flue Installation specialist to consider whether a “port” could be installed into the Flue. This would allow you to insert your Flue Cleaning Brush and Rod half way up the Flue. You can then clean downwards and then upwards, with less length to cover.

There is a chance this Rod could get caught up inside the bend due to the Ferrules at each end of the Rod.  Also, the twisted wire is not designed to be over compacted when trying to push through angles.  We would recommend you consider using our Flexi Flue Cleaning Brush Kit as it contains a continuous Nylon Rod designed to go around up to two 45 degree bends.  For a heavy duty option, we would recommend the Professional Chimney Rods (R900) that are in 3 foot lengths and joined end to end with Brass fittings to also handle Flues with bends.  You will need a UA1 Universal threaded adaptor with the Chimney Rods so you can connect the Rod to any of the 1/2 inch BSW fittings on our Flue Cleaning Brush Heads.

In this instance, we would recommend going with the larger size diameter.  When you first clean your Flue, take it slowly and gently as you don’t want to run the risk of the Flue Brush getting stuck inside the Flue.  If you find it too tight, you can trim the bristles down with a decent pair of scissors so that it fits your Flue size.

We have a Kit specifically available for cleaning Coffee Roaster Flues.  Given the nature of the build up, a more heavy duty Kit is recommended.  COFFEE ROASTER FLUE CLEANING

All of our Kits are designed for Manual cleaning.  No need to fiddle with Power Drills, particularly on the roof.  Purchasing the right size Flue Brush Head so that it fits the diameter of the Flue is important, as it means all you need to do is feed the Flue Brush into the Flue without needing to overwork the Rods.  Simply feed the Flue Brush Head and Rods into the Flue and then draw it out again.  Give it a shake and repeat if you believe it is needed.  This gives you the best clean and is less likely to dislodge rivets or screws that hold the sections of Flue together.

Our brushes are generally for manual use, as they might be too heavy for a Flex Shaft. You would need to check your User Manual.

Here is the link to our Professional Cleaning Brushes.  For manual use, we recommend our Professional Rods, and you would need a UA1 adaptor to make up the Kit.

When you place the 1 metre lengths of Gutter Brush into your guttering, it can create a barrier so that leaves or other debris will blow off the Gutter Brush and cannot accumulate inside your guttering. Rain can still get through the bristles so that your drainage is not impacted.

You need to measure the width of your guttering.  This will determine the diameter size of the brush you need.

For example, if your guttering measures 120mm x 120mm, go with the 125mm diameter.  The 110mm dia might be too loose and leaves could still fall down the side of the Gutter Brush, so a firmer fit would be recommended.  Sometimes the gutter brush might be visible above the guttering, but as a black bristle brush it is generally not too noticeable.

Our Gutter Brush is manufactured in 1 metre lengths for convenience of shipping. You simply lay them end to end inside your gutter. You can bend the brush so that it can go around the corners or your guttering.  It can also be pressed under the tiles to help keep out pests.

Lay the Gutter Brush so the ends press into each other, the single pieces will remain in place in your roof guttering.

You can also install a small section of gutter brush in the down pipe to leaves. Bend the rest of the length into the gutter. Only feed a small section, approx. 20cm, into the pipe so it does not impede the flow of water.

Lay the Gutter Brush end to the end so the ends of the brush press slightly into each other, the single pieces will remain in place in your roof guttering.

We recommend that once a year you still clean your gutters. Simply lift out the pieces of Gutter Brush, give them a shake, sweep or hose out the gutter and replace the Gutter Brush. This will remove any smaller build up or dust that may collect under the brush.We recommend that once a year you still clean your gutters. Simply lift out the pieces of Gutter Brush, give them a shake, sweep or hose out the gutter and replace the Gutter Brush. This will remove any smaller build up or dust that may collect under the brush.

Simply push the gutter brush into any open crevices to deter the bird or animal from getting in. They do not like the strong bristles.

The Gutter Brush can be cut into smaller pieces using bolt cutters or a tool that will crimp the wire ends at the same time as cutting them.

Our Gutter Brush is made from polypropylene bristles and galvanised steel wire. These materials are commonly used in outdoor products and are stable in normal weather conditions.

They are not certified as food-grade, because the product is designed for roof and gutter use—not for direct contact with drinking water or food handling.

For roof-fed water tanks, the main considerations are:

• No known leaching issues: Polypropylene is inert and doesn’t break down easily. Galvanised steel is commonly used in gutters and tanks.

• Not tested for drinking-water applications: Because it’s not a certified food-safe product, we can’t guarantee performance to that standard.

• External exposure: The brush sits in the gutter, so it is exposed to leaves, dust, birds, and other environmental contaminants that are typical of any roof water system.

If your tank water is used for garden use, the risk is low.
If it’s used for drinking, we recommend following best practice: regular filtration, first-flush systems, and routine tank maintenance.

Take advantage of our Full and Half Boxes of Gutter Brush, with a discounted price built in.

BOX SPECIALS

Simply Contact Us for more information.

If your bristles have lost their shape over time or during transport, run hot water (not boiling) over the bristles to help return their memory.

Rack Off ® Gutter Brush does not weigh much, but they take up a lot of room in a carton, which largely increases the cost to freight this product. They are classified as “oversize” freight.
We offer flat-rate freight to ship this around Australia, so it doesn’t become inaccessible to our regional customers.

We recommend using our Professional Chimney Rods, strong but flexible Polypropylene Rod with Brass fittings and 1/2″ BSW thread. Can be screwed end to end for longer lengths. You will also need to purchase a UA1 Brass adapter which has the 1/2″ BSW fitting.

Click here for our Professional Chimney Rods

We have a Professional Coffee Roasters Flue Cleaning Kit available that is suited for this application. The heavy duty Boiler Tube brushes have the potential to scratch the inside of the Stainless Steel Flue which can create more creosote build up.  Brass brushes would be more suitable for this application than Steel.  Our Professional Coffee Roasters Flue Cleaning Kit contains heavy duty Polypropylene brush heads suitable for this application.

Brazing a brass condenser tube brush with a 5/16″ fitting to a steel rod requires proper preparation, the right materials, and careful heating. Here’s how to do it:

Materials Needed:

• Brass Condenser Tube Brush (5/16″ fitting)
• Steel Rod (clean and sized appropriately)
• Silver Brazing Rod (preferably with flux core, or use a separate flux)
• Brazing Flux (if not using flux-coated rods)
• Oxy-acetylene torch (or MAPP gas torch for smaller jobs)
• Wire brush and emery cloth (for surface preparation)
• Heat-resistant gloves and safety goggles

Step-by-Step Brazing Process:

Surface Preparation:

• Clean the steel ferrule and steel rod with a wire brush to remove dirt, oxidation, and any surface contaminants.
• Use wet and dry sandpaper (400-600 grit) or a Scotch-Brite pad to further clean and roughen the surfaces for better adhesion.
• Degrease both parts with acetone or a suitable solvent.
• Apply brazing flux to the joint area to prevent oxidation and ensure a strong bond.

Positioning the Parts:

• If possible, insert the steel rod into the ferrule for a stronger mechanical connection.
• Secure the assembly using clamps or a fixture to hold it steady.

Heating the Joint:

• Use an oxy-acetylene torch or MAPP gas torch to heat both the steel ferrule and steel rod evenly.
• Focus more heat on the rod since it has a larger mass and will take longer to reach brazing temperature.

Applying the Brazing Rod:

• Once the steel reaches brazing temperature (approx. 800-900°C for brass or silver brazing alloy), touch the brazing rod to the joint.
• The molten braze material should flow smoothly into the joint by capillary action.
• Ensure full coverage around the ferrule and rod for maximum strength.

Cooling and Cleaning:

• Allow the assembly to cool naturally (do not quench). Rapid cooling can weaken the joint.
• Remove any residual flux with warm water and a wire brush.
• Inspect the joint to ensure full penetration and strength.

Important Note:

If you are unsure about any part of the brazing process or need a strong, reliable joint for a critical application, consult a qualified welding professional or a boilermaker with experience in brazing steel components. They will ensure the correct materials, temperatures, and techniques are used for a durable bond.

EcoWash is a Truck Wash detergent. We no longer supply this product.

Please add your Postcode to your shopping cart and drop down options will appear, including pick up from store.

When you purchase is processed you will be notified of the arrangements to collect your goods.

We have 2 pick up locations:

Busy Bee Brushware – 39 Swift Way Dandenong South

BB Engineering Plastics – Factory 2/31 Swift Way Dandenong South

On our website, the minimum order is $25 plus GST. We may have smaller diameter rods or thinner sheets available—please Contact us for details and special orders.

CNC Cutting and Machining

• CNC Router Cutting – precision cutting and profiling of plastic sheet from drawing or DXF file

• Turning (Lathe Work) – machining plastic rod to size, bushes, rollers, spacers and custom components

• Milling – machining flat surfaces, slots and profiles in plastic sheet or block

• Drilling – precision hole drilling in plastics

• Boring & Reaming – accurate internal diameters and finishing holes to size

• Threading – internal and external threads in plastic components

• Cut to Size – plastic sheet and rod cut to customer specifications

• Custom Plastic Machining – one-off or production components

Contact us for help with your specific application.

At BB Engineering Plastics, we pride ourselves on quality products and fast turnaround.

For cut to size products, we can usually turnaround in 1-2 business day from Order. General courier services take around 3-4 business days to Adelaide and another 2-3 business days for regional areas. Remembering that once it leaves our factory, the delivery is in the hands of the “shipping fairies”(!!) We work closely with our shipping partners, monitoring your goods to ensure it gets to your location at the earliest opportunity.

For urgent Orders, please Contact us so we can check on shipping options for you.

For more custom projects, we will advise you of timeframes at time of quoting.

We supply a wide range of customers, including wholesalers, trade businesses, and the general public.

Our products are sold:

• Wholesale to resellers such as mining supply companies, industrial supply companies, and bearing supply companies.
• Direct to businesses (B2B) that require custom or industrial brushware and engineering plastic products for their operations.
• Direct to consumers (B2C) including DIYers and hobbyists working on home projects.

Whether you are a reseller, a business needing components, or an individual working on a project, you can purchase directly from us.

If you are interested in becoming a trade or wholesale customer, please Contact us to discuss your requirements.

Machining bushes from plastic rod is straightforward, but a few steps at the start make the job much easier and more accurate.

1. Choose the right plastic

Start by selecting a material suited to a bush (bearing surface).

Common options:

• Acetal (POM / Delrin) – excellent for bushes, low friction, machines well
• Nylon (PA6 / Cast Nylon) – strong and wear resistant but absorbs moisture
• UHMWPE – very slippery, good wear resistance but softer
• PTFE – extremely low friction but quite soft

For most general bushes, Acetal is usually the best starting point.

2. Work out the dimensions

Before touching the lathe, define three sizes:

• OD – outside diameter of the bush
• ID – shaft size the bush runs on
• Length

Allowances matter:

• Press fit housing: OD usually +0.02 to +0.05 mm
• Running clearance on shaft: ID usually +0.02 to +0.05 mm

Plastic expands more than metal, so avoid tight fits.

3. Cut a blank from the rod

Cut a piece of rod slightly oversize:

• Length: +2–3 mm
• OD: already oversized from the rod

A bandsaw works well.

4. Machine on a lathe

Typical order of operations:

1. Face the end of the rod
2. Centre drill
3. Drill undersize (about 0.5–1 mm smaller than final ID)
4. Bore to final ID
5. Turn the outside diameter
6. Part off to length
7. Light face on the second side

Boring the hole gives much better accuracy than drilling alone.

5. Use the right tooling

Plastic machines differently to metal.

Best practices:

• Sharp tools
• High rake angles
• Moderate speeds
• Light cuts
• Avoid heat buildup

If the plastic starts stringing or melting, slow down and reduce feed.

6. Deburr carefully

Plastic burrs easily.

Use:

• A sharp knife
• Deburring tool
• Light chamfer

A 0.5–1 mm chamfer on both sides helps installation.

EXAMPLE

If you need a bush for:

• 20 mm shaft
• 30 mm housing
• 25 mm long

Typical sizes:

• ID: 20.03 mm
• OD: 30.03 mm (press fit)
• Length: 25 mm

Suggested Material: Acetal rod Ø32 mm

We can assist with custom machining, please Contact us for help with your specific application.

HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) is a tough and versatile plastic that offers excellent impact resistance and chemical resistance. It’s commonly used in applications such as cutting boards, tank linings, and piping systems. HDPE is lightweight, easy to work with, and cost-effective, making it a reliable choice for industries looking for a balance between durability and affordability.

Available in NATURAL (White) and BLACK in sheet and rod. We can get you out of trouble fast with cut to size options.  Contact us now.

If the material will be exposed to chemicals, acids, or oils, you’ll need a chemically resistant option like HDPE or PVC.

HDPE comes in NATURAL (White) and BLACK in a range of thicknesses. PVC comes in GREY.  We stock both options.

Contact us for help with your specific application.

HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) is a good all round plastic for chopping boards and an economical option. Available in a range of  thicknesses and in colours BLACK and NATURAL (White).

Other food grade options are UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) which is available in NATURAL (White) or GREEN.

Talk to us about your project now.

Sounds like you need something to pack out under the tool box.  For marine applications, engineering plastic is the way to go as it is hardwearing and durable.

Consider HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) in NATURAL (White) or BLACK. HDPE is an economical plastic for packers, spacers, bushes or lifting blocks.

You can purchase cut to size sheet, or we have Lifting Blocks available that are pre-drilled with a 12mm bore.

Contact us for help with your specific application.

There isn’t a single “best” engineering plastic for all electrical uses. The right choice depends on voltage, temperature, mechanical load, and environment. However, several plastics are widely used because they have high dielectric strength and good insulation properties. (Tynic Automation)

Common Engineering Plastics for Electrical Applications

1. PTFE (Teflon)

Often considered one of the best electrical insulators.

• Very high dielectric strength (around 60–100 kV/mm) (Huaruida Machinery)
• Excellent chemical and temperature resistance
• Very low moisture absorption
• Used for: wire insulation, high-frequency components, insulators, seals

Limitation: relatively soft and not very strong mechanically.

2. PET (Polyester)

Strong electrical insulation with good structural strength.

• Dielectric strength about 60 kV/mm (Tynic Automation)
• Good dimensional stability
• Used for: electrical insulators, switchgear parts, transformer components

3. HDPE / Polypropylene

Good general-purpose electrical insulators.

• Dielectric strength around 45 kV/mm (Tynic Automation)
• Very low moisture absorption
• Cost-effective
• Used for: cable insulation, housings, electrical barriers

4. Acetal (POM) – (POPULAR)

Common for precision electrical components.

• Good dielectric strength (~40 kV/mm)
• Excellent machinability and dimensional stability
• Used for: connectors, coil formers, switch parts

5. High-performance plastics (for demanding environments)

Examples include PEEK, PEI (Ultem), and polyimide.

• Used where high temperature + electrical insulation are required
• Found in aerospace, electronics, and high-voltage equipment

Quick rule of thumb

Please Contact us for information on availability of product and stock

The worn collar under a swivel seat is usually a plastic bushing (also called a swivel bushing or plastic insert). Its job is to act as a low-friction bearing between the metal shaft and the seat plate so the seat can rotate smoothly without metal-to-metal wear. (courtesy Dinette Online)

If the original plastic collar has worn out, you can replace it with a few practical options:

1. Nylon or Acetal (Delrin) bush

Best long-term fix.

• Machine or buy a nylon, acetal, or UHMWPE bush to the same dimensions.
• These plastics are commonly used for low-friction bearings and wear parts.

2. Brass or Oilite bush

• Durable and smooth.
• Often used in furniture swivels and machinery.

3. Short-term fixes

If you just need something quick:

• Nylon spacer or washer stack
• PVC or nylon tube section cut to length
• 3D-printed nylon or PETG sleeve

4. If the shaft is loose

You can also add:

• Split shaft collar clamp above the bush to hold the seat at the correct height (common DIY fix when bushings wear).

Material suggestions (in order)

1. Acetal (Delrin) – best wear resistance
2. Nylon – very good and cheap
3. UHMWPE – very slippery
4. Brass/Oilite – heavy duty

This is a classic plain bearing application, so a simple turned acetal or nylon bush usually solves it permanently.

Send a photo of the worn collar via our email (or the shaft diameter and housing diameter). We can suggest the exact type and dimensions of bush to make.

CNC Cutting and Machining

• CNC Router Cutting – precision cutting and profiling of plastic sheet from drawing or DXF file

• Turning (Lathe Work) – machining plastic rod to size, bushes, rollers, spacers and custom components

• Milling – machining flat surfaces, slots and profiles in plastic sheet or block

• Drilling – precision hole drilling in plastics

• Boring & Reaming – accurate internal diameters and finishing holes to size

• Threading – internal and external threads in plastic components

• Cut to Size – plastic sheet and rod cut to customer specifications

• Custom Plastic Machining – one-off or production components

Contact us for help with your specific application.

Acetal (also known as POM) is a good choice when you need a strong, stable engineering plastic with excellent machining and wear properties.

It is often used when:

• Precision and dimensional stability are important – Acetal has low moisture absorption, so it holds tight tolerances and keeps its shape.

• Low friction and good wear resistance are needed – ideal for moving parts such as bushes, gears, rollers, and wear strips.

• Good machinability is required – Acetal machines cleanly and is well suited to turning, milling, and drilling.

• Strength and stiffness are needed in a plastic – it offers higher strength and rigidity than many other plastics.

• Moist or wet environments are involved – Acetal performs well where occasional water exposure occurs.

Typical applications include:
Bushes, bearings, gears, rollers, spacers, wear pads, and precision machined components.

If you are unsure whether Acetal is the right material for your application, feel free to Contact us and we can help guide you.

Both acetal and nylon are common engineering plastics used for machined parts such as bushes, gears, rollers and wear components. They have similar uses, but their properties are a bit different.

Acetal vs Nylon (Quick Comparison)

Key Differences

1. Moisture absorption

• Acetal absorbs very little moisture, so it holds its size well.
• Nylon absorbs water from the air, which can cause slight swelling.

This is the biggest practical difference.

2. Dimensional stability
Because of the moisture issue:

• Acetal is better when tight tolerances are required.
• Nylon is fine for many parts but can change size slightly over time.

3. Toughness

• Nylon is generally tougher and more impact resistant.
• Acetal is stiffer and more rigid.

4. Wear and friction
Both perform well, but:

• Nylon often performs better in high-wear sliding applications.
• Acetal performs well in precision moving parts.

When to Choose Acetal

Use acetal when you need:

• Tight tolerances
• Precision machined components
• Low moisture absorption
• Smooth, low-friction movement

Common parts:

• Precision bushes
• gears
• valves
• small mechanical components

When to Choose Nylon

Use nylon when you need:

• Higher toughness or impact resistance
• Good wear performance
• Lower material cost
• Slight flexibility

Common parts:

• heavy-duty bushes
• wear strips
• rollers
• impact components

Simple rule:

• Acetal = precision and stability
• Nylon = toughness and wear

Feel free to Contact us and we can help guide you with your application.

Several engineering plastics are stronger or tougher than standard Nylon (Polyamide) depending on what type of strength you mean (tensile strength, stiffness, impact resistance, or wear). The most common options used in engineering applications are:

1. Acetal (POM / Delrin®)

Often chosen instead of Nylon when higher dimensional stability is needed.

Why it can be stronger than Nylon

• Higher stiffness and rigidity
• Better dimensional stability (absorbs very little moisture)
• Lower friction and good wear resistance

Typical uses

• Precision machined components
• Gears and bearings
• Bushes and rollers

2. PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone)

One of the strongest high-performance engineering plastics available.

Advantages

• Very high tensile strength
• Excellent temperature resistance
• Outstanding chemical resistance
• Extremely durable

Typical uses

• Aerospace components
• Medical implants
• High-load industrial parts

3. Polycarbonate (PC)

Not always stronger in tensile strength than Nylon, but much tougher in impact resistance.

Advantages

• Very high impact strength
• Good clarity
• Strong and durable

Typical uses

• Machine guards
• Safety shields
• Structural components needing impact resistance

4. UHMWPE

Not stronger in stiffness, but much tougher and more wear resistant.

Advantages

• Exceptional abrasion resistance
• Very low friction
• High impact resistance

Typical uses

• Wear strips
• liners
• sliding components

Quick rule of thumb

In many machined engineering parts, Acetal is the most common upgrade from Nylon because it machines well and stays dimensionally stable.

Contact us and tell us about your application. We can help you with best and most affordable available product.

Delrin is a brand name of acetal. All Delrin is acetal, but not all acetal is Delrin. Delrin is a trademark owned by DuPont.

Acetal is a strong and stable engineering plastic, but it does have a few limitations. One of the main disadvantages is its relatively poor resistance to UV exposure and weathering. When used outdoors without stabilisers, it can degrade over time—becoming brittle or losing mechanical properties. It also has limited resistance to strong acids and oxidising agents, so it’s not suitable for certain chemical environments where other plastics like polypropylene or PTFE would perform better.

Another drawback is its tendency to have higher thermal expansion and lower impact resistance compared to some alternatives, particularly under very cold conditions where it can become more brittle. Acetal can also be more expensive than common plastics like polyethylene or nylon, which can be a factor in cost-sensitive applications. While it machines very well, it can produce formaldehyde fumes if overheated during processing, so proper machining conditions and ventilation are important.

If you need plastic for heat, here’s the quick guide:

• High heat (200–260°C): PTFE (Teflon), PEEK
• Medium heat (150–200°C): PPS, PEI
• Lower heat (~100–120°C): Nylon, Acetal (courtesy polysource.com.au)

Simple rule:

• Light heat → Nylon / Acetal
• Serious heat → PEEK or PTFE

Yes—you can absolutely turn plastic on a lathe.

In fact, most engineering plastics machine very well and are commonly turned into parts like bushes, rollers, spacers and wear components. Materials such as nylon, acetal (Delrin), UHMWPE and HDPE are all suitable.

A few key points to keep it simple:

• Cuts easily – plastics are generally softer than metals, so you can take clean cuts with sharp tools

• Sharp tooling is critical – blunt tools will melt or tear the material instead of cutting it

• Heat control matters – too much speed or pressure can cause melting or stringy swarf

• Support the workpiece – some plastics can flex, especially in smaller diameters

For your type of work (bushes, small machined parts), acetal is usually the easiest to machine cleanly, while nylon is tougher but can be a bit more flexible.

Alright—what you choose really depends on the job. Here’s a simple guide based on common parts you’d machine on a lathe:

Bushes / Bearings

• Best: Acetal (Delrin)
• Why: Machines clean, holds size well, low friction
• Use when: You need accuracy and a nice finish
• Alternative: Nylon
• Why: Tougher, better for shock loads
• Trade-off: Can absorb moisture and swell slightly

Wear strips / Sliding parts

• Best: UHMWPE
• Why: Very low friction, excellent wear resistance
• Trade-off: Not as dimensionally stable or precise to machine

Rollers / Wheels

• Best: Nylon
• Why: Strong, impact resistant
• Alternative: Acetal if you want tighter tolerances and smoother running

High load / Structural parts

• Best: Acetal or Nylon (depending on environment)
• Choose Acetal if: You need stability and precision
• Choose Nylon if: You need toughness and load capacity

Wet / Washdown / Outdoor

• Best: Acetal or UHMWPE
• Avoid: Nylon (can absorb water over time)

Quick rule of thumb:

• Want easy machining + accuracy → Acetal
• Want toughness + impact resistance → Nylon
• Want low friction + wear → UHMWPE

Not sure which is best for your application.  Contact us now, we can help.

Short answer: there isn’t one single “lightest and strongest” plastic — it depends on what you mean by strength (tensile, impact, stiffness, wear). But if you’re talking best strength-to-weight ratio, a few stand out:

Best overall (strength vs weight)

UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene)

• Very low density (~0.93–0.95 g/cm³) → very light
• Extremely high impact strength (among the highest of any plastic)
• Excellent wear and abrasion resistance
• Lower tensile strength than high-end plastics, but outstanding toughness per weight

Strongest high-performance plastic

PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone)

• Much higher tensile strength (~90–100 MPa)
• Density ~1.3 g/cm³ (heavier than UHMWPE)
• Excellent heat, chemical, and fatigue resistance

If you want maximum structural strength (not just lightness), this is the top engineering plastic.

Good balance (cost vs performance)

Nylon (Polyamide)

• Strong (~80–90 MPa tensile)
• Moderate weight (~1.14 g/cm³)
• Tough and wear-resistant

Often the practical choice in engineering applications.

Simple way to think about it

• Lightest + toughest: → UHMWPE
• Strongest (structural): → PEEK
• Best all-rounder (cost/performance): → Nylon

Contact us about your application (load, temperature, machining, etc.), and we can help narrow it down to the best available material for your specific job.

Large-toothed saws or blades should be avoided as they will cause the plastic to break or crack and leave uneven edges. You will need a saw with a fine-toothed blade in order to cut plastic. Make sure your plastic is fixed to a level surface or work surface before using a hacksaw, jigsaw, or fine-toothed saw to cut it.

Jigsaw time! Arrange the pieces as best you can into shape, then trace or measure your diffuser.
For circles, trace onto paper, then fold the circle in half to find the diameter.

The Skylight Diffusers are custom cut from 3mm thickness Acrylic Plastic Sheet.  The “colour” is Opal Frost which provides a soft glow.

Select a larger size, e.g. if you need 460mm, then select a 500mm dia Round. When you go to the Checkout, there is a box available for your comments and you can specify that you require your Diffuser to be 460mm dia Round.

Provided you are fitting your Skylight Diffuser replacement into a solid frame, it is generally strong enough to hold up without sagging.

We specialise in FLAT sheet Acrylic only, but we can do custom sizes to make it easy to fit your existing Skylight surround.  We recommend you google “Dome Skylight Diffusers” to locate a supplier in your local area.

This type of plastic is called “prismatic”, and is mainly used for commercial purposes.  We use a flat plastic Acrylic sheet which provides a softer glow and a lifts the appearance of your home to a more modern look.

We do not supply the prismatic sheet, so if you need to match your Skylight Diffuser replacement to match other existing prismatic diffusers, you will need to google search “prismatic acrylic” to find a supplier in your area.

We package the Skylight Diffuser between 2 square pieces of heavy-duty cardboard and seal the sides totally for protection. We use either Australia Post shipping or Courier Shipping.

This is not our area of specialisation. We recommend you google “Skylight replacement surrounds” to locate someone in your local area.

There will be a plastic film on both sides of the skylight that can make it looked scratched. Have you peeled these of yet? Sometimes the film can be hard to notice!! If you have trouble removing the file, try sticking some tape near the edge to lift the film and peel off.

In relation to polycarbonate flat sheet used for engineering and construction, UV2 generally means:

Two-Sided UV Protection

“UV2” indicates the sheet has a UV protective coating applied to both faces of the polycarbonate.

What that means in practice

Polycarbonate naturally has high impact strength, but it will:

• Yellow over time
• Lose clarity
• Become brittle

when exposed to prolonged ultraviolet (sunlight) without protection.

A UV2 sheet is:

• Co-extruded or coated with a UV-stabilised layer
• Protected on both sides
• Suitable for outdoor applications where either face may be exposed to sunlight

When UV2 matters

UV2 sheets are typically specified for:

• Roofing and skylights
• Machine guards exposed to daylight
• Safety glazing
• Covered walkways
• External barriers or shields

If a sheet is marked UV1, it usually means only one side has UV protection and must be installed with the protected side facing outward.

Why it’s important for engineering and construction

UV2 gives:

• Longer service life outdoors
• Better clarity retention
• Reduced cracking and surface degradation
• More flexibility during installation (no risk of installing the “wrong side” out)

If you’re supplying sheet for outdoor structural or glazing use, UV2 is generally the safer specification.

Here’s a clear, practical comparison between Acrylic (PMMA) and Polycarbonate (PC) sheet:

Strength & Impact Resistance

• Polycarbonate: Extremely tough (virtually unbreakable). Used for safety glazing and machine guards.
• Acrylic: Stronger than glass but brittle compared to polycarbonate. Can crack under impact.

If impact matters → Polycarbonate wins

Clarity & Appearance

• Acrylic: Better optical clarity (up to ~92% light transmission). Looks more like glass.
• Polycarbonate: Slightly less clear, can have a faint tint.

If appearance matters → Acrylic wins

Scratch Resistance

• Acrylic: Naturally harder surface, more scratch-resistant.
• Polycarbonate: Softer, scratches easily (often needs hard coating).

For surface durability → Acrylic wins

Heat & Temperature Resistance

• Polycarbonate: Handles higher temperatures without deforming.
• Acrylic: Lower heat resistance, can warp or crack under heat.

For heat → Polycarbonate wins

Machining & Fabrication

• Acrylic: Easy to cut, polish, and glue with a clean finish.
• Polycarbonate: Tougher to machine cleanly but very formable (can bend without cracking).

For clean finishes → Acrylic
For bending/forming → Polycarbonate

Cost

• Acrylic: More affordable.
• Polycarbonate: More expensive due to performance.

Typical Uses

• Acrylic: Signage, display panels, shop fittings, light covers
• Polycarbonate: Machine guards, safety shields, roofing, impact areas

Simple Rule of Thumb

• Need strength and safety → go Polycarbonate
• Need clarity and finish → go Acrylic

Plastic can be bent in two ways – around a shallow curve or along a sharp corner. When bending a sheet around a sharp corner you will require heat to get the desired radius. With heat bending, you tend to heat the plastic to a specific line or point in the sheet and hold it to the shape.

Plastic sheet can be bent by carefully applying heat along the fold line and shaping it to the desired angle. At Busy Bee, we offer a folding/bending service specifically for Acrylic and Polycarbonate sheets, capable of handling up to 6 mm thickness and lengths up to 1.2 m, ensuring precise, clean bends without cracking or stressing the material.

With plastic bending capabilities, you can create a wide range of functional and custom products. Examples include:

• Protective panels and guards – bent plastic sheets can be used for machine guarding, viewing panels, or as a lightweight, shatter-resistant replacement for glass.
• Enclosures and covers – for machinery, electronics, or outdoor equipment where lightweight, durable, heat- or UV-resistant plastics are needed.
• Signage and displays – folded or bent acrylic or polycarbonate sheets can form stand-offs, holders, or protective display covers.
• Custom parts and panels – for DIY, industrial, or automotive applications where off-the-shelf shapes won’t fit, including ducting, deflectors, or shields.

At BB Engineering Plastics, our folding/bending table handles Acrylic or Polycarbonate sheets up to 6 mm thick and lengths up to 1.2m, making it ideal for these types of custom solutions.