Help Centre

Please add your Postcode to your shopping cart and drop down options will appear, including pick up from store.

When you purchase is processed you will be notified of the arrangements to collect your goods.

We have 2 pick up locations:

Busy Bee Brushware – 39 Swift Way Dandenong South

BB Engineering Plastics – Factory 2/31 Swift Way Dandenong South

On our website, the minimum order is $25 plus GST. We may have smaller diameter rods or thinner sheets available—please Contact us for details and special orders.

CNC Cutting and Machining

• CNC Router Cutting – precision cutting and profiling of plastic sheet from drawing or DXF file

• Turning (Lathe Work) – machining plastic rod to size, bushes, rollers, spacers and custom components

• Milling – machining flat surfaces, slots and profiles in plastic sheet or block

• Drilling – precision hole drilling in plastics

• Boring & Reaming – accurate internal diameters and finishing holes to size

• Threading – internal and external threads in plastic components

• Cut to Size – plastic sheet and rod cut to customer specifications

• Custom Plastic Machining – one-off or production components

Contact us for help with your specific application.

At BB Engineering Plastics, we pride ourselves on quality products and fast turnaround.

For cut to size products, we can usually turnaround in 1-2 business day from Order. General courier services take around 3-4 business days to Adelaide and another 2-3 business days for regional areas. Remembering that once it leaves our factory, the delivery is in the hands of the “shipping fairies”(!!) We work closely with our shipping partners, monitoring your goods to ensure it gets to your location at the earliest opportunity.

For urgent Orders, please Contact us so we can check on shipping options for you.

For more custom projects, we will advise you of timeframes at time of quoting.

We supply a wide range of customers, including wholesalers, trade businesses, and the general public.

Our products are sold:

• Wholesale to resellers such as mining supply companies, industrial supply companies, and bearing supply companies.
• Direct to businesses (B2B) that require custom or industrial brushware and engineering plastic products for their operations.
• Direct to consumers (B2C) including DIYers and hobbyists working on home projects.

Whether you are a reseller, a business needing components, or an individual working on a project, you can purchase directly from us.

If you are interested in becoming a trade or wholesale customer, please Contact us to discuss your requirements.

Machining bushes from plastic rod is straightforward, but a few steps at the start make the job much easier and more accurate.

1. Choose the right plastic

Start by selecting a material suited to a bush (bearing surface).

Common options:

• Acetal (POM / Delrin) – excellent for bushes, low friction, machines well
• Nylon (PA6 / Cast Nylon) – strong and wear resistant but absorbs moisture
• UHMWPE – very slippery, good wear resistance but softer
• PTFE – extremely low friction but quite soft

For most general bushes, Acetal is usually the best starting point.

2. Work out the dimensions

Before touching the lathe, define three sizes:

• OD – outside diameter of the bush
• ID – shaft size the bush runs on
• Length

Allowances matter:

• Press fit housing: OD usually +0.02 to +0.05 mm
• Running clearance on shaft: ID usually +0.02 to +0.05 mm

Plastic expands more than metal, so avoid tight fits.

3. Cut a blank from the rod

Cut a piece of rod slightly oversize:

• Length: +2–3 mm
• OD: already oversized from the rod

A bandsaw works well.

4. Machine on a lathe

Typical order of operations:

1. Face the end of the rod
2. Centre drill
3. Drill undersize (about 0.5–1 mm smaller than final ID)
4. Bore to final ID
5. Turn the outside diameter
6. Part off to length
7. Light face on the second side

Boring the hole gives much better accuracy than drilling alone.

5. Use the right tooling

Plastic machines differently to metal.

Best practices:

• Sharp tools
• High rake angles
• Moderate speeds
• Light cuts
• Avoid heat buildup

If the plastic starts stringing or melting, slow down and reduce feed.

6. Deburr carefully

Plastic burrs easily.

Use:

• A sharp knife
• Deburring tool
• Light chamfer

A 0.5–1 mm chamfer on both sides helps installation.

EXAMPLE

If you need a bush for:

• 20 mm shaft
• 30 mm housing
• 25 mm long

Typical sizes:

• ID: 20.03 mm
• OD: 30.03 mm (press fit)
• Length: 25 mm

Suggested Material: Acetal rod Ø32 mm

We can assist with custom machining, please Contact us for help with your specific application.

HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) is a tough and versatile plastic that offers excellent impact resistance and chemical resistance. It’s commonly used in applications such as cutting boards, tank linings, and piping systems. HDPE is lightweight, easy to work with, and cost-effective, making it a reliable choice for industries looking for a balance between durability and affordability.

Available in NATURAL (White) and BLACK in sheet and rod. We can get you out of trouble fast with cut to size options.  Contact us now.

If the material will be exposed to chemicals, acids, or oils, you’ll need a chemically resistant option like HDPE or PVC.

HDPE comes in NATURAL (White) and BLACK in a range of thicknesses. PVC comes in GREY.  We stock both options.

Contact us for help with your specific application.

HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) is a good all round plastic for chopping boards and an economical option. Available in a range of  thicknesses and in colours BLACK and NATURAL (White).

Other food grade options are UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) which is available in NATURAL (White) or GREEN.

Talk to us about your project now.

Sounds like you need something to pack out under the tool box.  For marine applications, engineering plastic is the way to go as it is hardwearing and durable.

Consider HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) in NATURAL (White) or BLACK. HDPE is an economical plastic for packers, spacers, bushes or lifting blocks.

You can purchase cut to size sheet, or we have Lifting Blocks available that are pre-drilled with a 12mm bore.

Contact us for help with your specific application.

There isn’t a single “best” engineering plastic for all electrical uses. The right choice depends on voltage, temperature, mechanical load, and environment. However, several plastics are widely used because they have high dielectric strength and good insulation properties. (Tynic Automation)

Common Engineering Plastics for Electrical Applications

1. PTFE (Teflon)

Often considered one of the best electrical insulators.

• Very high dielectric strength (around 60–100 kV/mm) (Huaruida Machinery)
• Excellent chemical and temperature resistance
• Very low moisture absorption
• Used for: wire insulation, high-frequency components, insulators, seals

Limitation: relatively soft and not very strong mechanically.

2. PET (Polyester)

Strong electrical insulation with good structural strength.

• Dielectric strength about 60 kV/mm (Tynic Automation)
• Good dimensional stability
• Used for: electrical insulators, switchgear parts, transformer components

3. HDPE / Polypropylene

Good general-purpose electrical insulators.

• Dielectric strength around 45 kV/mm (Tynic Automation)
• Very low moisture absorption
• Cost-effective
• Used for: cable insulation, housings, electrical barriers

4. Acetal (POM) – (POPULAR)

Common for precision electrical components.

• Good dielectric strength (~40 kV/mm)
• Excellent machinability and dimensional stability
• Used for: connectors, coil formers, switch parts

5. High-performance plastics (for demanding environments)

Examples include PEEK, PEI (Ultem), and polyimide.

• Used where high temperature + electrical insulation are required
• Found in aerospace, electronics, and high-voltage equipment

Quick rule of thumb

Please Contact us for information on availability of product and stock

The worn collar under a swivel seat is usually a plastic bushing (also called a swivel bushing or plastic insert). Its job is to act as a low-friction bearing between the metal shaft and the seat plate so the seat can rotate smoothly without metal-to-metal wear. (courtesy Dinette Online)

If the original plastic collar has worn out, you can replace it with a few practical options:

1. Nylon or Acetal (Delrin) bush

Best long-term fix.

• Machine or buy a nylon, acetal, or UHMWPE bush to the same dimensions.
• These plastics are commonly used for low-friction bearings and wear parts.

2. Brass or Oilite bush

• Durable and smooth.
• Often used in furniture swivels and machinery.

3. Short-term fixes

If you just need something quick:

• Nylon spacer or washer stack
• PVC or nylon tube section cut to length
• 3D-printed nylon or PETG sleeve

4. If the shaft is loose

You can also add:

• Split shaft collar clamp above the bush to hold the seat at the correct height (common DIY fix when bushings wear).

Material suggestions (in order)

1. Acetal (Delrin) – best wear resistance
2. Nylon – very good and cheap
3. UHMWPE – very slippery
4. Brass/Oilite – heavy duty

This is a classic plain bearing application, so a simple turned acetal or nylon bush usually solves it permanently.

Send a photo of the worn collar via our email (or the shaft diameter and housing diameter). We can suggest the exact type and dimensions of bush to make.

CNC Cutting and Machining

• CNC Router Cutting – precision cutting and profiling of plastic sheet from drawing or DXF file

• Turning (Lathe Work) – machining plastic rod to size, bushes, rollers, spacers and custom components

• Milling – machining flat surfaces, slots and profiles in plastic sheet or block

• Drilling – precision hole drilling in plastics

• Boring & Reaming – accurate internal diameters and finishing holes to size

• Threading – internal and external threads in plastic components

• Cut to Size – plastic sheet and rod cut to customer specifications

• Custom Plastic Machining – one-off or production components

Contact us for help with your specific application.

Acetal (also known as POM) is a good choice when you need a strong, stable engineering plastic with excellent machining and wear properties.

It is often used when:

• Precision and dimensional stability are important – Acetal has low moisture absorption, so it holds tight tolerances and keeps its shape.

• Low friction and good wear resistance are needed – ideal for moving parts such as bushes, gears, rollers, and wear strips.

• Good machinability is required – Acetal machines cleanly and is well suited to turning, milling, and drilling.

• Strength and stiffness are needed in a plastic – it offers higher strength and rigidity than many other plastics.

• Moist or wet environments are involved – Acetal performs well where occasional water exposure occurs.

Typical applications include:
Bushes, bearings, gears, rollers, spacers, wear pads, and precision machined components.

If you are unsure whether Acetal is the right material for your application, feel free to Contact us and we can help guide you.

Both acetal and nylon are common engineering plastics used for machined parts such as bushes, gears, rollers and wear components. They have similar uses, but their properties are a bit different.

Acetal vs Nylon (Quick Comparison)

Key Differences

1. Moisture absorption

• Acetal absorbs very little moisture, so it holds its size well.
• Nylon absorbs water from the air, which can cause slight swelling.

This is the biggest practical difference.

2. Dimensional stability
Because of the moisture issue:

• Acetal is better when tight tolerances are required.
• Nylon is fine for many parts but can change size slightly over time.

3. Toughness

• Nylon is generally tougher and more impact resistant.
• Acetal is stiffer and more rigid.

4. Wear and friction
Both perform well, but:

• Nylon often performs better in high-wear sliding applications.
• Acetal performs well in precision moving parts.

When to Choose Acetal

Use acetal when you need:

• Tight tolerances
• Precision machined components
• Low moisture absorption
• Smooth, low-friction movement

Common parts:

• Precision bushes
• gears
• valves
• small mechanical components

When to Choose Nylon

Use nylon when you need:

• Higher toughness or impact resistance
• Good wear performance
• Lower material cost
• Slight flexibility

Common parts:

• heavy-duty bushes
• wear strips
• rollers
• impact components

Simple rule:

• Acetal = precision and stability
• Nylon = toughness and wear

Feel free to Contact us and we can help guide you with your application.

Several engineering plastics are stronger or tougher than standard Nylon (Polyamide) depending on what type of strength you mean (tensile strength, stiffness, impact resistance, or wear). The most common options used in engineering applications are:

1. Acetal (POM / Delrin®)

Often chosen instead of Nylon when higher dimensional stability is needed.

Why it can be stronger than Nylon

• Higher stiffness and rigidity
• Better dimensional stability (absorbs very little moisture)
• Lower friction and good wear resistance

Typical uses

• Precision machined components
• Gears and bearings
• Bushes and rollers

2. PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone)

One of the strongest high-performance engineering plastics available.

Advantages

• Very high tensile strength
• Excellent temperature resistance
• Outstanding chemical resistance
• Extremely durable

Typical uses

• Aerospace components
• Medical implants
• High-load industrial parts

3. Polycarbonate (PC)

Not always stronger in tensile strength than Nylon, but much tougher in impact resistance.

Advantages

• Very high impact strength
• Good clarity
• Strong and durable

Typical uses

• Machine guards
• Safety shields
• Structural components needing impact resistance

4. UHMWPE

Not stronger in stiffness, but much tougher and more wear resistant.

Advantages

• Exceptional abrasion resistance
• Very low friction
• High impact resistance

Typical uses

• Wear strips
• liners
• sliding components

Quick rule of thumb

In many machined engineering parts, Acetal is the most common upgrade from Nylon because it machines well and stays dimensionally stable.

Contact us and tell us about your application. We can help you with best and most affordable available product.

Delrin is a brand name of acetal. All Delrin is acetal, but not all acetal is Delrin. Delrin is a trademark owned by DuPont.

Acetal is a strong and stable engineering plastic, but it does have a few limitations. One of the main disadvantages is its relatively poor resistance to UV exposure and weathering. When used outdoors without stabilisers, it can degrade over time—becoming brittle or losing mechanical properties. It also has limited resistance to strong acids and oxidising agents, so it’s not suitable for certain chemical environments where other plastics like polypropylene or PTFE would perform better.

Another drawback is its tendency to have higher thermal expansion and lower impact resistance compared to some alternatives, particularly under very cold conditions where it can become more brittle. Acetal can also be more expensive than common plastics like polyethylene or nylon, which can be a factor in cost-sensitive applications. While it machines very well, it can produce formaldehyde fumes if overheated during processing, so proper machining conditions and ventilation are important.

If you need plastic for heat, here’s the quick guide:

• High heat (200–260°C): PTFE (Teflon), PEEK
• Medium heat (150–200°C): PPS, PEI
• Lower heat (~100–120°C): Nylon, Acetal (courtesy polysource.com.au)

Simple rule:

• Light heat → Nylon / Acetal
• Serious heat → PEEK or PTFE

Yes—you can absolutely turn plastic on a lathe.

In fact, most engineering plastics machine very well and are commonly turned into parts like bushes, rollers, spacers and wear components. Materials such as nylon, acetal (Delrin), UHMWPE and HDPE are all suitable.

A few key points to keep it simple:

• Cuts easily – plastics are generally softer than metals, so you can take clean cuts with sharp tools

• Sharp tooling is critical – blunt tools will melt or tear the material instead of cutting it

• Heat control matters – too much speed or pressure can cause melting or stringy swarf

• Support the workpiece – some plastics can flex, especially in smaller diameters

For your type of work (bushes, small machined parts), acetal is usually the easiest to machine cleanly, while nylon is tougher but can be a bit more flexible.

Alright—what you choose really depends on the job. Here’s a simple guide based on common parts you’d machine on a lathe:

Bushes / Bearings

• Best: Acetal (Delrin)
• Why: Machines clean, holds size well, low friction
• Use when: You need accuracy and a nice finish
• Alternative: Nylon
• Why: Tougher, better for shock loads
• Trade-off: Can absorb moisture and swell slightly

Wear strips / Sliding parts

• Best: UHMWPE
• Why: Very low friction, excellent wear resistance
• Trade-off: Not as dimensionally stable or precise to machine

Rollers / Wheels

• Best: Nylon
• Why: Strong, impact resistant
• Alternative: Acetal if you want tighter tolerances and smoother running

High load / Structural parts

• Best: Acetal or Nylon (depending on environment)
• Choose Acetal if: You need stability and precision
• Choose Nylon if: You need toughness and load capacity

Wet / Washdown / Outdoor

• Best: Acetal or UHMWPE
• Avoid: Nylon (can absorb water over time)

Quick rule of thumb:

• Want easy machining + accuracy → Acetal
• Want toughness + impact resistance → Nylon
• Want low friction + wear → UHMWPE

Not sure which is best for your application.  Contact us now, we can help.

Short answer: there isn’t one single “lightest and strongest” plastic — it depends on what you mean by strength (tensile, impact, stiffness, wear). But if you’re talking best strength-to-weight ratio, a few stand out:

Best overall (strength vs weight)

UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene)

• Very low density (~0.93–0.95 g/cm³) → very light
• Extremely high impact strength (among the highest of any plastic)
• Excellent wear and abrasion resistance
• Lower tensile strength than high-end plastics, but outstanding toughness per weight

Strongest high-performance plastic

PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone)

• Much higher tensile strength (~90–100 MPa)
• Density ~1.3 g/cm³ (heavier than UHMWPE)
• Excellent heat, chemical, and fatigue resistance

If you want maximum structural strength (not just lightness), this is the top engineering plastic.

Good balance (cost vs performance)

Nylon (Polyamide)

• Strong (~80–90 MPa tensile)
• Moderate weight (~1.14 g/cm³)
• Tough and wear-resistant

Often the practical choice in engineering applications.

Simple way to think about it

• Lightest + toughest: → UHMWPE
• Strongest (structural): → PEEK
• Best all-rounder (cost/performance): → Nylon

Contact us about your application (load, temperature, machining, etc.), and we can help narrow it down to the best available material for your specific job.

Large-toothed saws or blades should be avoided as they will cause the plastic to break or crack and leave uneven edges. You will need a saw with a fine-toothed blade in order to cut plastic. Make sure your plastic is fixed to a level surface or work surface before using a hacksaw, jigsaw, or fine-toothed saw to cut it.

Jigsaw time! Arrange the pieces as best you can into shape, then trace or measure your diffuser.
For circles, trace onto paper, then fold the circle in half to find the diameter.

The Skylight Diffusers are custom cut from 3mm thickness Acrylic Plastic Sheet.  The “colour” is Opal Frost which provides a soft glow.

Select a larger size, e.g. if you need 460mm, then select a 500mm dia Round. When you go to the Checkout, there is a box available for your comments and you can specify that you require your Diffuser to be 460mm dia Round.

Provided you are fitting your Skylight Diffuser replacement into a solid frame, it is generally strong enough to hold up without sagging.

We specialise in FLAT sheet Acrylic only, but we can do custom sizes to make it easy to fit your existing Skylight surround.  We recommend you google “Dome Skylight Diffusers” to locate a supplier in your local area.

This type of plastic is called “prismatic”, and is mainly used for commercial purposes.  We use a flat plastic Acrylic sheet which provides a softer glow and a lifts the appearance of your home to a more modern look.

We do not supply the prismatic sheet, so if you need to match your Skylight Diffuser replacement to match other existing prismatic diffusers, you will need to google search “prismatic acrylic” to find a supplier in your area.

We package the Skylight Diffuser between 2 square pieces of heavy-duty cardboard and seal the sides totally for protection. We use either Australia Post shipping or Courier Shipping.

This is not our area of specialisation. We recommend you google “Skylight replacement surrounds” to locate someone in your local area.

There will be a plastic film on both sides of the skylight that can make it looked scratched. Have you peeled these of yet? Sometimes the film can be hard to notice!! If you have trouble removing the file, try sticking some tape near the edge to lift the film and peel off.

In relation to polycarbonate flat sheet used for engineering and construction, UV2 generally means:

Two-Sided UV Protection

“UV2” indicates the sheet has a UV protective coating applied to both faces of the polycarbonate.

What that means in practice

Polycarbonate naturally has high impact strength, but it will:

• Yellow over time
• Lose clarity
• Become brittle

when exposed to prolonged ultraviolet (sunlight) without protection.

A UV2 sheet is:

• Co-extruded or coated with a UV-stabilised layer
• Protected on both sides
• Suitable for outdoor applications where either face may be exposed to sunlight

When UV2 matters

UV2 sheets are typically specified for:

• Roofing and skylights
• Machine guards exposed to daylight
• Safety glazing
• Covered walkways
• External barriers or shields

If a sheet is marked UV1, it usually means only one side has UV protection and must be installed with the protected side facing outward.

Why it’s important for engineering and construction

UV2 gives:

• Longer service life outdoors
• Better clarity retention
• Reduced cracking and surface degradation
• More flexibility during installation (no risk of installing the “wrong side” out)

If you’re supplying sheet for outdoor structural or glazing use, UV2 is generally the safer specification.

Here’s a clear, practical comparison between Acrylic (PMMA) and Polycarbonate (PC) sheet:

Strength & Impact Resistance

• Polycarbonate: Extremely tough (virtually unbreakable). Used for safety glazing and machine guards.
• Acrylic: Stronger than glass but brittle compared to polycarbonate. Can crack under impact.

If impact matters → Polycarbonate wins

Clarity & Appearance

• Acrylic: Better optical clarity (up to ~92% light transmission). Looks more like glass.
• Polycarbonate: Slightly less clear, can have a faint tint.

If appearance matters → Acrylic wins

Scratch Resistance

• Acrylic: Naturally harder surface, more scratch-resistant.
• Polycarbonate: Softer, scratches easily (often needs hard coating).

For surface durability → Acrylic wins

Heat & Temperature Resistance

• Polycarbonate: Handles higher temperatures without deforming.
• Acrylic: Lower heat resistance, can warp or crack under heat.

For heat → Polycarbonate wins

Machining & Fabrication

• Acrylic: Easy to cut, polish, and glue with a clean finish.
• Polycarbonate: Tougher to machine cleanly but very formable (can bend without cracking).

For clean finishes → Acrylic
For bending/forming → Polycarbonate

Cost

• Acrylic: More affordable.
• Polycarbonate: More expensive due to performance.

Typical Uses

• Acrylic: Signage, display panels, shop fittings, light covers
• Polycarbonate: Machine guards, safety shields, roofing, impact areas

Simple Rule of Thumb

• Need strength and safety → go Polycarbonate
• Need clarity and finish → go Acrylic

Plastic can be bent in two ways – around a shallow curve or along a sharp corner. When bending a sheet around a sharp corner you will require heat to get the desired radius. With heat bending, you tend to heat the plastic to a specific line or point in the sheet and hold it to the shape.

Plastic sheet can be bent by carefully applying heat along the fold line and shaping it to the desired angle. At Busy Bee, we offer a folding/bending service specifically for Acrylic and Polycarbonate sheets, capable of handling up to 6 mm thickness and lengths up to 1.2 m, ensuring precise, clean bends without cracking or stressing the material.

With plastic bending capabilities, you can create a wide range of functional and custom products. Examples include:

• Protective panels and guards – bent plastic sheets can be used for machine guarding, viewing panels, or as a lightweight, shatter-resistant replacement for glass.
• Enclosures and covers – for machinery, electronics, or outdoor equipment where lightweight, durable, heat- or UV-resistant plastics are needed.
• Signage and displays – folded or bent acrylic or polycarbonate sheets can form stand-offs, holders, or protective display covers.
• Custom parts and panels – for DIY, industrial, or automotive applications where off-the-shelf shapes won’t fit, including ducting, deflectors, or shields.

At BB Engineering Plastics, our folding/bending table handles Acrylic or Polycarbonate sheets up to 6 mm thick and lengths up to 1.2m, making it ideal for these types of custom solutions.